世界遺産の参詣道を歩く――熊野古道

[From May Issue 2012]

 

The Kumano-kodo are pilgrimage routes leading to sacred spots in the Kii Mountains of Wakayama Prefecture. As part of “the Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range,” the paths were designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004, attracting a lot of attention. Depicted in the Nihonshoki (Chronicles of Japan), Japan’s oldest history book, this area is a holy place which first became famous after the retired Emperor Shirakawa paid visits to Kumano around the 11th century. Consequently, it became a popular site of worship for commoners as well.

There are two main reasons why the routes became a World Heritage Site. One reason is that the Kii Mountain Range has three sacred sites which have all contributed to the development of Japan’s long religious history: Kumano Sanzan, Koyasan, Yoshino and Omine (all connected to the outside world by paths). Another is that these holy places and the old paths that took people there have remained unchanged to this day.

Kumano Sanzan, located in the south western part of the Kii Mountain Range, collectively refers to a set of three temples: Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Hayatama Taisha, and Kumano Nachi Taisha. These are the main shrines of some 3,000 Kumano shrines across Japan. It is said that one can atone for all past sins by visiting the Kumano Sanzan shrines, thus achieving future happiness and passage to heaven when one dies.

Koyasan was established by the monk Kukai in the early Heian period as the headquarters of the Shingon sect of esoteric Buddhism, with Kongobuji as its main temple. Having about 1200 years of history, it still houses some 120 temples. Yoshino and Omine, situated in the Omine Mountain Range, also known as “The Roof of Kinki,” is an important place for those pursuing enlightenment.

The Kumano-kodo mainly consists of five pilgrimage routes: Kiiji, Nakahechi, Ohechi, Kohechi, and Iseji. These paths lie in the natural surroundings of the Kii Mountain Range that straddles the three prefectures of Wakayama, Mie and Nara. Walking along these routes allows you to discover the scenery of the ancient Heian period. Although some of the paths are quite steep, while walking on them you can encounter beautiful scenery and historical cultural assets.

Kiiji is a route from Osaka to Tanabe, which has a tough steep section called Shishigase Mountain Path. It is said that FUJIWARA no Sadaie, a poet in the Kamakura period, was greatly grieved by its steepness. Yuasa-cho along the way, is believed to be the birthplace of soy sauce, and its old streets have been designated as an important conservation spot by the nation. The local specialty in the nearby town of Minabe-cho is nankou-ume plums, and some visitors take this route in order to buy them.

Nakahechi is a mountainous path leading from Tanabe to Kumano Sanzan. It’s popular because it’s easy to walk on, with gentle up and down slopes. You can see the same mountain scenery as monks of Kumano moude (visiting shrines) would have seen as they walked along the route as part of their training. Climbing up Daimonzaka, an old, cobblestone path leads through a centuries’ old cedar forest, arriving at Kumano Nachi Taisha. Close to the shrine is Nachi Otaki, a waterfall that drops 133 meters, the highest in Japan. Kumano Hongu Taishai is a popular spot for hot springs such as Kawayu Onsen Sennin-buro (entry is free of charge. Open between November and end of February) and Yunomine Onsen Tsuboyu (entry for a fee), where footsore travelers can recharge their batteries.

Walking along Kiiji and Nakahechi, you will come across a number of small shrines and stone monuments. Called “Kujuku Oji,” pilgrims are believed to have prayed for safe passage and rested their legs there. Kujuku (99) does not represent the actual number of the shrines, but indicates the fact that they are high in number.

Ohechi is a route that runs along the coast from Tanabe to Kumano Sanzan. There are steep paths called Shijuhassaka at Tonda-zaka (in Shirahama-cho) and Nagai-zaka (in Susami-cho). Around Kushimoto-cho some paths command sweeping views of the sea and rice fields. Known for its bathing beaches, hot springs, and Adventure World – an amusement park with eight pandas – Shirahama is a popular tourist area all year around. The Katsuura Fishing Port near Nachi Taisha is well known as a tuna port and has many restaurants serving fresh tuna.

Kohechi is a path connecting Koyasan and Kumano Hongu. Depending on the direction you’re headed, the same path is called by different names: walking from Koyasan it’s “Kumano-michi” and starting from Kumano Hongu it’s “Koya-michi.” It is a tough route going over a series of 1,000-meter-high mountains in the Kii Mountain Range. Scattered about along the way, you can see the moss-covered Sanjusan Kannon Sekibutsu (33 stone statues of Kannon).

Iseji is a path that links Ise Jingu (Ise Grand Shrine) in Mie Prefecture and Kumano Sanzan. It has become known to the public as a pilgrimage route for the common people, rather than as a route used by emperors and retired emperors. It is said that people made this pilgrimage when they visited Ise Jingu in Mie.

To walk comfortably along the Kumano-kodo remember to choose an outfit that is easy to move in and easy to remove. That’s because with its steep slopes and narrow, rough paths, it’s more physically demanding than you may expect. Signposts and signboards placed at intervals of 500 meters allow you to check the route as you go along. They also indicate which areas have no cell phone reception. It’s advisable to check the route in advance on websites introducing the Kumano-kodo.

As well as being a World Heritage site that symbolizes Japanese culture, the Kumano-kodo are roads on which people offer up prayers to the local gods. Hardly anyone drops litter and when they find it some people pick up trash off the paths for those who will walk along them next. There are rules for those taking the pilgrimage routes which every visitor follows as they walk. These rules consist of eight articles including: “We will protect mankind’s heritage” and “We keep the spirit of prayer passed on from the ancient times alive in our hearts.”

To get to the Kumano-kodo you can take a one hour and 10 minute flight from Haneda Airport to Nanki-Shirahama Airport. From JR Tokyo Station to JR Kii-Tanabe Station, taking a shinkansen then special express train, it takes approximately four hours and 40 minutes. Access is also possible from JR Nagoya Station to JR Kii-Katsuura Station using a special express train, which takes roughly three hours and 30 minutes. From the airport or station, you can take a bus or a taxi to the starting point of each route.

Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range

Text: SEKI Hideo, First Penguin

[2012年5月号掲載記事]

熊野古道は、和歌山県紀伊山地にある霊場への参詣道です。2004年に「紀伊山地の霊場と参詣道」の一部としてユネスコの世界文化遺産に登録され、注目を集めました。この地方は日本最古の歴史書「日本書記」の中にも描かれた神聖な場所で、11世紀末頃、白河上皇の熊野訪問がきっかけで知られるようになり、やがて庶民の間にもお参りが広がりました。

世界文化遺産に登録された理由として大きく二つあります。一つは紀伊山地には、熊野三山、高野山、吉野・大峯の三つの大きな霊場と、そこに行くための道が、長い日本の宗教文化の発展に貢献してきたこと。もう一つは大自然の中に、これらの霊場と人々を結ぶその古い道が現在も変わらず保存されてきたことです。

熊野三山は紀伊山地の東南の方角にあり、熊野本宮大社、熊野速玉大社、熊野那智大社の三神社の総称で、日本全国にある約3,000社の熊野神社の総本社です。熊野三山にお参りすると、その人の過去におかした罪がなくなり、これからの幸福の実現や亡くなってから極楽に行くことができるといわれています。

高野山は、平安時代初期の僧、空海が真言密教の中心として開いた場所で、金剛峯寺が総本山です。およそ1200年の歴史を持ち、今も約120の寺院があります。「吉野・大峯」は「近畿の屋根」とたとえられる大峰山脈にある、修業する人にとって大切な場所です。

熊野古道には主に5つの参詣道--紀伊路、中辺路、大辺路、小辺路、伊勢路--があります。和歌山、三重、奈良の3つの県にまたがる紀伊山地の自然の中にあり、この道を歩くと、はるか昔の平安時代の景色を見出せます。なかには険しい道もありますが、歩きながら美しい風景や歴史的な文化財に出合うことができます。

紀伊路は、大阪から田辺までの道のりで、その中には急な坂で難所の一つ「鹿ヶ瀬峠」があります。鎌倉時代の歌人、藤原定家もその険しさを嘆いたといわれています。途中の湯浅町はしょうゆ発祥の地といわれ、古い街並みは国の重要保存地区に指定されています。また道近くのみなべ町には名産の「南高梅」があり、買い物と合わせて散策する人もいます。

中辺路は、田辺から山中を通る熊野三山までの道。適度なアップダウンが続いて歩きやすいので人気があり、かつての熊野詣の風景が見られます。樹齢数百年の杉木立の中にある石畳の古道「大門坂」を上ると熊野那智大社に到着。近くには日本で一番の落差133メートルの「那智大滝」があります。また、本宮には無料で入浴できる「川湯温泉 仙人風呂」(11月から2月末まで)、日本最古の温泉「湯の峰温泉 つぼ湯」(有料)があり、旅の疲れを癒してくれる人気のスポットです。

紀伊路と中辺路を歩くと、小さな神社や石碑がたくさんあります。これらは「九十九王子」と呼ばれ、お参りする人たちの旅の安全祈願や休憩場所とされています。「九十九」は実際の数ではなく、その多さを表しています。

大辺路は、田辺から海岸沿いに熊野三山へ向かう道。富田坂(白浜町)、長井坂(すさみ町)などには「四十八坂」と呼ばれる厳しい道、また串本町周辺には海や田畑を眺めるのんびりした風景の広がる道があります。白浜は、海水浴場、温泉、8頭のパンダがいるテーマパーク、アドベンチャーワールドで知られており、一年中人気の高い観光エリアです。那智大社近くの勝浦漁港はマグロの水揚げ港として有名で、新鮮なマグロが食べられるお店がたくさんあります。

小辺路は、高野山と熊野本宮を結ぶ道。高野山側から歩くと「熊野道」、熊野本宮側からは「高野道」と呼ばれ、行先で道の名前が違います。紀伊山地の1,000メートル級の山々を越える険しい道が続きます。その道では、苔むした三十三観音石仏があちらこちらで見られます。

伊勢路は、三重県の伊勢神宮と熊野三山を結ぶ道です。法皇、上皇一行が利用した道ではなく、庶民が参拝する道として広く親しまれてきました。当時から人々は、三重の「伊勢神宮」と合わせて参詣したといわれています。

熊野古道を快適に歩くための服装は、動きやすくて脱ぎ着しやすいものを心がけましょう。急な坂道や細くて足元の悪い道もあり、思った以上の運動になるからです。500メートルごとに道標や案内板があるので確認しながら進むことができます。携帯電話不通のエリアもわかります。古道を紹介したサイトで、事前にコースを調べることもおすすめです。

熊野古道は、この地の神々にお祈りをする道であり、日本の文化を象徴する世界遺産です。ごみを捨てる人はほとんどいません。落ちていても、次にお参りする人のために、ごみを拾う人もたくさんいます。また、「人類の遺産をみんなで守ります」「いにしえからの祈りの心をたどります」など8ヵ条からなる参詣道ルールもあり、訪れる誰もがこれを守って歩いています。

熊野古道へのアクセスは、羽田空港から飛行機で南紀白浜空港まで約1時間10分、JR東京駅から新幹線と特急を利用して、玄関口であるJR紀伊田辺駅まで約4時間40分です。もう一つの玄関口、JR紀伊勝浦駅までは、JR名古屋駅から特急を利用して約3時間30分。空港や駅から各古道の起点までは、バスやタクシーが利用でき
ます。

紀伊山地の霊場と参詣道

文:ファーストペンギン 関 秀夫

2 Comments

  1. David Tanaka

    Nice overview article of this world heritage site. An excellent resource for the Kumano Kodo is the Tanabe City Kumano Tourism Bureau. They have really detailed and useful information, including a community based booking system.
    http://www.tb-kumano.jp/en/

  2. David Tanaka

    Nice overview article of this world heritage site. An excellent resource for the Kumano Kodo is the Tanabe City Kumano Tourism Bureau. They have really detailed and useful information, including a community based booking system.
    http://www.tb-kumano.jp/en/

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