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Azumino – Where Crystal Clear Water Runs
Actor TERAO Akira’s anonymous character wanders through the peaceful countryside along a calm, crystal clear river, coming upon several quietly turning watermills. Children, dressed as if from a time long past, pick flowers and walk by. This serene scene, from “Yume” (Dreams), the 29th film of Japan’s most renowned director KUROSAWA Akira, is the last vignette of the movie in which a series of surrealistic stories, based on real dreams of the filmmaker, are depicted.
Is this locale simply a well-made movie set or a real place? The answer is both. Actually, dreams themselves often combine bits of reality and imagination. However, a chance to visit this wonderful amalgamation can be had in Nagano Prefecture’s Azumino, at Daio Wasabinojo, Japan’s largest wasabi farm at 11 times the area of the Tokyo Dome.
For wasabi to grow properly, clear, clean water is needed, and Tadegawa’s mountain water provides that perfectly. Daio Wasabi Farm already provided the beautiful river and lush greenery, but to complete his vision, Kurosawa had several watermills built (three of which remain today) along the Tadegawa which runs next to the farm.
Famous around the world as Japan’s version of horseradish, wasabi paste is usually used with sushi and sashimi. While wasabi grows all year, spring is a good time to go to the farm. Cool weather and a quaint trail lined with numerous cherry blossom trees make for a pleasant visit. Summer can be nice as well. Although a little warmer, green trees and mountain river water refresh body and spirit.
Of course, you can do more than just look at the wasabi. Any of a wide variety of wasabi inspired concoctions, including wasabi hot dogs, wasabi chocolate, and the popular wasabi ice cream are available to try. And if you have a sensitive tongue, don’t worry. Despite the usual spicy nature of wasabi, many of these foods are mild and easy to enjoy with a unique and surprisingly good taste.
Besides sampling the food and checking out the souvenirs and crafts, you can also paddle your way down the river on a Clear Boat. Along with a guide and a few others, one can take a raft leisurely down the river, past the watermills for a 15-minute (900 yen) or 30-minute (2,000 yen) course. The Clear Boat tours run from April 26 to October 26.
In addition, there are a few museums in Azumino, including Rokuzan Art Museum, only a 7-minute walk from Hotaka Station on the JR Oito Line. Containing several sculptures and paintings, the vine covered, steeple topped building, built like a church, alone is worth the short detour. Several temples and hot springs can be found in the area as well.
Getting to the Daio Wasabi Farm itself is a little longer, but a quick and easy trip nonetheless. A taxi ride will only take about 5 minutes. But a more enjoyable way is to go by bicycle, which can be rented at the station. Bikes usually go from 200 to 250 yen per hour. Based on the average time spent at the farm, this method can also be cheaper than the round trip taxi fare and much more fun, making it easier to take in the emerald green rice fields and the surrounding Japan Alps. You won’t need to worry about getting lost as frequent signs dot the route to help guide you.
All of this makes for a relaxing day trip. A good and easy way to escape the city. To get there from Tokyo, go to Shinjuku Station and take the Azusa or Super Azusa train on the JR Chuo Line straight to Matsumoto, Nagano. It takes about two and a half hours. From there, just transfer to the Oito Line and another 30-minute ride north to Hotaka Station. Once there, a quick visit to the tourist information center next to the station is recommended. There is often an English speaker there eager to help out.
Text: Jeremy DROUIN
Explorer Azumino!
http://www.azumino-e-tabi.net/en/
(From October Issue 2008)
