Tsukiji–Entertaining Fish Market

It may only be a station away from the affluent and cosmopolitan streets of Ginza, yet Tsukiji couldn’t be more different. The area is a no-frills working district with a distinctly old-Tokyo feel that has become popular with Japanese and foreign tourists alike, thanks in large part to being the undisputed seafood capital of Tokyo (Tsukiji Market).

Tsukiji as a fishing centre traces its roots back to the Edo era when fishermen from Osaka moved to the area on the invitation of Shogun TOKUGAWA Ieyasu to supply seafood to Edo Castle. In time, Tsukiji established itself as a thriving market. It wasn’t until after the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 that the area was reborn as the heart of the city’s seafood industry.

Today, the aging market is at the centre of controversy. Hoping to cash in on the land occupied by the market (valued at 2 trillion yen) the Tokyo Metropolitan Government is planning to relocate it to a site that is said to be contaminated in Tokyo’s Koto Ward in 2012. Whether the move will go ahead is anyone’s guess. If you want to experience Tsukiji you might have to get there soon. Oh, and get there early in the morning.

Early Morning Tsukiji
The action at Tsukiji kicks off at 5 am when the auctions begin and reaches fever pitch between 8 and 10 am. Each day, some 3,300 tons of produce with a value of 2.1 billion yen pass through the market. And as you might expect with all that action, the place is chaotic. Yet the market’s vibrancy makes a visit one of the most entertaining experiences Tokyo has to offer.

Fishy fun in Tsukiji isn’t limited to the market, as the surrounding streets offer up some of Tokyo’s best places to try an assortment of fresh seafood dishes. Unlike the often astronomical prices up the road in Ginza, Tsukiji’s restaurants are priced for the hordes of workers that keep the market running 24 hours a day. Like Ginza though, the quality of the food can be exceptional, but be prepared to have to line up for a seat for lunch or even breakfast.

More Than Just Fish
It might come as a surprise even to Tokyoites, but Tsukiji is not just about fish. Tsukiji Honganji Buddhist Temple has a history that closely matches that of Tsukiji’s development as a fishing centre, originally being founded in the 1600s but with the current building constructed shortly after the Great Kanto Earthquake. The temple is well worth a visit for both its Indian influenced architecture and for some welcome tranquility in an otherwise bustling part of the city.

A few minutes walk from Hongwanji, the twin towers of St. Luke’s Garden represent Tsukiji’s modern side as they reach skyward from the banks of the Sumida River. Besides being a Tsukiji landmark, the building offers some great views of Tokyo Bay and Ginza from the observatory on its 47th floor.

-Side info-
As the fish market is first and foremost a place of business, some areas are off limits and there are a few guidelines to bear in mind when you visit. To avoid the wrath of the dealers, avoid flash photography during auctions and resist any temptation to touch the fish. Also be aware that the floor of the market can be extremely slippery and watch out for the forklifts and carts zipping around the place – they stop for nobody.

The Tsukiji Market
www.tsukiji-market.or.jp/tukiji_e.htm

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